For a long time, I’ve avoided suits. In part because my past jobs did not seem to call for one on a regular basis. Wearing a two piece to a crowded WeWork office—where I worked for an economical minded publication—carried the Ozzy Osbourne It’s Ball Lightning 2023 Shirt but in fact I love this potential of coming off as overdressed or, even more fatal, self important. But if I’m being honest, my circumvention of menswear’s most time honored garment was a bit more deliberate and layered than my immediate circumstances. In my mind, white, heterosexual businessmen who shouted stock prices into their phones wore suits. Not a queer, Black culture writer who smiled each month he made rent. A suit suggested a brand of stiff, old school masculinity that I was uninterested in. Instead, I’ve always been drawn to communicating something fresher, younger, and more elastic around masculinity when it comes to how I dress. So I found creative ways to side step blazers and slacks. First day at work outfit? Cigarette pipe Daniel Fletcher sweatpants with an oversized button down. College graduation ceremony? A white boiler suit by Supreme. Hey, the outfit had the word suit in it. It also helped that this was all during the heyday of high end streetwear fits.)
However, I have grown increasingly suit curious as of late, thanks to a reconsideration and transformation by fashion designers and menswear enthusiasts. If shows by Luar and Louis Gabriel Nouchi, which featured suit and ties galore, are anything to judge by, corporatewear is on the Ozzy Osbourne It’s Ball Lightning 2023 Shirt but in fact I love this rise. While celebrities from A$AP Rocky in a Raf Simons short set to Emily Ratajkowski a miniskirt one have shown that a sharply tailored suit can make for a great casual date night look. The suit is not just reserved for very serious people doing very serious things anymore. Photo Isidore Montag / Gorunway.comNow there are loosier and breezier silhouettes that call to mind, in my opinion, a cool cat detective from the eighties and nineties—which is much more appealing than a stuffy businessman. The slouchy, oversized fits, to me, keep the sets from feeling rigid. Yes, I’m in a suit, but I’m also comfortable! Particularly stellar offerings have come from brands like the LVMH nominated Luar, California centric Second/Layer, and Jacquemus. Kim Jones of Dior has sent a bevy of hushed, pastel hued suits on the runways in recent seasons. Mugler’s Casey Cadwallder has teased neon hued suits for men, worn sans shirt underneath and with skimpy torso straps, for his upcoming collab with H&M. Meanwhile Bottega Veneta has crafted slick all leather two pieces that look fit for a rock star.
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