“By revealing underwear in the way Thom Browne has played with jockstraps and Miu Miu created these kinds of ostentatious women’s knickers— maybe it’s not necessarily an overt stand, but it certainly can be read as a reflection on the idea of gendered bodies,” he says. “One of the places we often think about gendered bodies is with the genitals, and while we’re not exposing them, we are doing what fashion historian Valerie Steele calls, ‘hinting at what is hidden.’” Either way, the look has certainly resonated with users on social media. Paris based TikTok user Marie Gaguech replicated Miu Miu’s panty centric look with her own at home version, asking her followers what they thought. She overwhelmingly received more meaningful feedback than jeers or hard nos. One person responded, “I think if the tights are all clear without the line, or throughout with a pattern it could be better.” Speaking to Vogue over email, Gaguech, 24, says she does like the visual aesthetics of exposed underwear. But she worries about the varied, complicated responses such a look might elicit out and about. “I would love to wear it outside, but even with a coat I don’t know if I would feel 100 percent comfortable,” she says.
Still, she thinks there are already more conservative or hedged versions of the get up out in the wild. “A sporty short short, warmers, and sneakers is not so far from the Miu Miu look,” Gaguech says. “But are we all going to end up in panties on the street? I don’t believe so. But I do think that skirts and shorts will shorten even more.” In short, the line between underwear and outerwear—at least from a tailoring perspective—will blur even more. This rings true across both womenswear and menswear. On the women’s side, the corset, historically viewed as the most intimate of intimates, has become a multifunctional outfit. They can be spotted on stage at sold out arena shows by Blackpink, Dua Lipa, and others, inside clubs on a Saturday night, and, if styled right, even at brunch or two. While menswear has, increasingly, embraced the short short, with Paul Mescal and Donald Glover being prominent early adopters, and various men’s labels now effectively dishing out pieces that go shorter than even the standard pair of boxer shorts.
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