Fanning is no stranger to retro silhouettes. Her silky Gucci slip dress at last year’s Golden Globes, for instance, channeled Grace Kelly’s sleek style; as did the Dior ensemble she wore to the Cannes Film Festival in 2019. But for the Critics Choice, Fanning and stylist Samantha McMillen were drawn to McQueen’s romantic version of the bustle, a garment from the early to mid 1870s consisting of a pad or frame worn underneath a skirt to exaggerate the hips. Turns out, they spotted it on the spring 2023 runway back in October and have been eyeing it for an awards show ever since. “I’ve worked with Elle for over 10 years, and we always look for something authentically ‘Elle’,’’ says McMillen. “We both loved this dress from the spring 2023 collection a strong, powerful silhouette with soft whitework embroidery referencing the artist Hieronymus Bosch.”
A closer look reveals intricate embroidery inspired by Bosch’s 15th and 16th century oil paintings. You could say the dress, then, doubles as art. This approach to the red carpet is one we will likely continue to see Fanning for the rest of awards season. And even more likely is another McQueen gown to do so. “There is always that duality in Sarah Burton’s designs that resonates with us both,” teases McMillen. When longtime Vogue editor André Leon Talley died last year at 73, there was an acute sense of loss in the fashion community. His contributions would be missed, but perhaps even more so, his presence. The larger than life figure approached his existence as a splendid art project even choosing to play tennis in abundant Louis Vuitton, as seen in The September Issue. Fashion insiders and casual observers alike recognized the tall, imposing man dressed in theatrical caftans perched at the top of the Met Gala stairs as an interviewer often the only person the night’s A list guests granted a chat to.
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